![]() The design comes last not first, so be prepared to be shocked/surprised. Remember Subtraction Cutting is an experimental and practical methodology, so you’ll need to work around material and geometric problems, take risks, not be frightened of uncertainty or happy accidents, and ad-lib until you find the right solution. Give it a whirl and post prototype results using the #crazyleg or #subtractioncutting hashtags. Fitting and adapting the pattern is essential to get right as all people are different. It’s at the fitting stage, on a real human being not a lifeless mannequin that you decide what feels right in dynamic movement, not just what looks good. I usually mirror left & right legs so that the pattern is ‘Cut X1 Pair’, but of course you might prefer to have two completely different asymmetrical legs, it’s up to you. Then you can recut this toile and check for fit, add pockets/fly/yokes as needed, before remaking it in finished fabric. You’ll then be able to lay the deconstructed toile completely flat and trace off finished patterns which get rid of the join between the shorts and the tube so they’re now a one-piece pattern. Make sure you mark plenty of balance notches on the toile!! Then once you’ve drawn your side seams you deconstruct the toile by cutting down the side/inside leg seams you’ve drawn and releasing all the pairs of circular holes. Sometimes it’s possible to get rid of one of these two seams and have a one-piece leg instead, it depends on the design/fit. Take your time figuring out the best route. Then once done you can carefully extend the outer side seam and inside leg seam snaking down to the hemline through the tube avoiding cutting across any seam lines. Once you’ve got this sorted you can then slot the leg tube over the pair of shorts you cut which has the correct crotch/bum fit, get them positioned at the right level/height, and then masking-tape or pin the two together (masking-tape is more flexible!). Take lots of photos to document this process, then you can look back at them all together to find your favourite leg shapes. Once you’ve made a few experimental tubes you can then try them on a human leg! Put them on at different angles, rotating them around the leg to find the best look, as well as turning them upside down (it’s a parallel tube, so there is no top or bottom, back or front, left or right… it’s up to you to experiment and decide on orientation!) Try concertina folds, valley folds, mountain folds, coil tunnels, multiple tunnels, and if you like try making tunnels from other shape tubes rather than rectangles. You can then use these long tubes to fold and subtract pairs of holes in exactly the same way you do with a Subtraction tunnel dress, except the holes you cut are a generous leg circumference, approx 36cm. Make a few of them up so you can experiment with different types of tunnels and folds. Just fold the rectangle in half to make a long 150cm+ tube about 34cm wide (which should be plenty big enough to get a leg through). I’d recommend that these each be made from a rectangle 70cm wide by at least 150cm long. Next step is then to make up a few long separate leg tubes. Get this bit right first, length doesn’t matter at this stage. #crazylegs #subtractioncutting #freecuttingīegin by first making a toile pair of shorts which has the correct crotch & hip/bum fit you like. Work-in-Progress crazyleg subtraction trouser prototype for Royal College of Art MA Woven Textiles student Joseph Whitbread □□…Ī concertina fold and a twisting coil fold, with cat. Julian Roberts has shown 12 womenswear collections during London Fashion Week under the pseudonym labels 'nothing nothing' and 'JULIANAND', and is currently MA Tutor for Mixed Media Textiles at the Royal College of Art in London UK.Įmail: professorjulianroberts Julian has led energetic Subtraction Cutting masterclasses in over 36 countries including the United Kingdom, Canada, Mexico, Australia, USA, India, Russia, China, Japan, Brazil, New Zealand, Spain, Portugal, Italy, Austria, Denmark, Sweden, Germany, Holland, Nigeria, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Chile, Colombia, Tasmania, Romania, Peru, Argentina, Poland, Slovenia, Vietnam, Georgia, Lebanon and France. These unusual techniques and methodologies have been made freely available online since 2001, and can be used diversely to make mens and womens fashion garments, accessories, and hollow interior/exterior products. 'Subtraction Cutting' is the name given to an experimental method of hollow construction developed by fashion designer and academic Julian Roberts, taught by him at universities worldwide since 1998.
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